Separation Anxiety in Dogs
What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety continued...
For help designing and carrying out a desensitization and
counterconditioning plan, consult a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB
or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB). If you can’t
find a behaviorist, you can seek help from a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT),
but be sure that the trainer is qualified to help you. Determine whether she or
he has education and experience in treating fear with desensitization and
counterconditioning, since this kind of expertise isn’t required for CPDT
certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional
Help, to locate one of these experts in your area.
Step One: Predeparture Cues
As mentioned above, some dogs begin to feel anxious while their guardians
get ready to leave. For example, a dog might start to pace, pant and whine when
he notices his guardian applying makeup, putting on shoes and a coat, and then
picking up a bag or car keys. (If your dog doesn’t show signs of anxiety when
you’re preparing to leave him alone, you can just skip to step two below.)
Guardians of dogs who become upset during predeparture rituals are unable to
leave-even for just few seconds-without triggering their dogs’ extreme anxiety.
Your dog may see telltale cues that you’re leaving (like your putting on your
coat or picking up your keys) and get so anxious about being left alone that he
can’t control himself and forgets that you’ll come back.
One treatment approach to this “predeparture anxiety” is to teach your dog
that when you pick up your keys or put on your coat, it doesn’t always mean
that you’re leaving. You can do this by exposing your dog to these cues in
various orders several times a day-without leaving. For example, put on your
boots and coat, and then just watch TV instead of leaving. Or pick up your
keys, and then sit down at the kitchen table for awhile. This will reduce your
dog’s anxiety because these cues won’t always lead to your departure, and so
your dog won’t get so anxious when he sees them. Please be aware, though, that
your dog has many years of learning the significance of your departure cues, so
in order to learn that the cues no longer predict your long absences, your dog
must experience the fake cues many, many times a day for many weeks. After your
dog doesn’t become anxious when he sees you getting ready to leave, you can
move on to the next step below.
Step Two: Graduated Departures/Absences
If your dog is less anxious before you leave, you can probably skip the
predeparture treatment above and start with very short departures. The
main rule is to plan your absences to be shorter than the time it takes for
your dog to become upset. To get started, train your dog to perform
out-of-sight stays by an inside door in the home, such as the bathroom. You can
teach your dog to sit or down and stay while you go to the other side of the
bathroom door. You can teach your dog to sit or down and stay while you go to
the other side of the bathroom door. (If you need help teaching your dog how to
stay, please see our article, Teaching Your Dog to
Stay. You can also contact a Certified Pet Dog Trainer for assistance.
Please see our article, Finding Professional
Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.) Gradually increase the length of time
you wait on the other side of the door, out of your dog’s sight. You can also
work on getting your dog used to predeparture cues as you practice the stay.
For example, ask your dog to stay. Then put on your coat, pick up your purse
and go into the bathroom while your dog continues to stay.
- Progress to doing out-of-sight stay exercises at a bedroom door, and then
later at an exit door. If you always leave through the front door, do the
exercises at the back door first. By the time you start working with your dog
at exit doors, he shouldn’t behave anxiously because he has a history of
playing the “stay game.”
- At this point, you can start to incorporate very short absences into your
training. Start with absences that last only last one to two seconds, and then
slowly increase the time you’re out of your dog’s sight. When you’ve trained up
to separations of five to ten seconds long, build in counterconditioning by
giving your dog a stuffed food toy just before you step out the door. The
food-stuffed toy also works as a safety cue that tells the dog that this is a
- During your sessions, be sure to wait a few minutes between absences. After
each short separation, it’s important to make sure that your dog is completely
relaxed before you leave again. If you leave again right away, while your dog
is still excited about your return from the previous separation, he’ll already
feel aroused when he experiences the next absence. This arousal might make him
less able to tolerate the next separation, which could make the problem worse
rather than better.
- Remember to behave in a very calm and quiet manner when going out and
coming in. This will lower the contrast between times when you’re there and
times when you’re gone.
- You must judge when your dog is able to tolerate an increase in the length
of separation. Each dog reacts differently, so there are no standard timelines.
Deciding when to increase the time that your dog is alone can be very
difficult, and many pet parents make errors. They want treatment to progress
quickly, so they expose their dogs to durations that are too long, which
provokes anxiety and worsens the problem. To prevent this kind of mistake,
watch for signs of stress in your dog. These signs might include dilated
pupils, panting, yawning, salivating, trembling, pacing and exuberant greeting.
If you detect stress, you should back up and shorten the length of your
departures to a point where your dog can relax again. Then start again at that
level and progress more slowly.
- You will need to spend a significant amount of time building up to
40-minute absences because most of your dog’s anxious responses will occur
within the first 40 minutes that he’s alone. This means that over weeks of
conditioning, you’ll increase the duration of your departures by only a few
seconds each session, or every couple of sessions, depending on your dog’s
tolerance at each level. Once your dog can tolerate 40 minutes of separation
from you, you can increase absences by larger chunks of time (5-minute
increments at first, then later 15-minute increments). Once your dog can be
alone for 90 minutes without getting upset or anxious, he can probably handle
four to eight hours. (Just to be safe, try leaving him alone for four hours at
first, and then work up to eight full hours over a few days.)
- This treatment process can be accomplished within a few weeks if you can
conduct several daily sessions on the weekends and twice-daily sessions during
the work week, usually before leaving for work and in the evenings.